Bangladesh through my eyes

Beginning chronologically, these pictures were taken upon arrival to Bangladesh and end with Saima's wedding which was 4 days before evacuation. These are some of my favorite pictures that I took and others took of me while I served in Bangladesh. Enjoy.

M

Final Blog Entry in Bangladesh

It is with much sadness and regret that I write this last blog entry. 3 days ago Peace Corps suspended the program in Bangladesh. We have all been evacuated to Washington DC for assessment, medical and other burocratic processes. It became apparent after much tension and various incidences that Peace Corps volunteers were not safe in Bangladesh. For safety and security reasons as well as liability I cannot go into details here on this blog but I can tell you that volunteers were directly being targeted by the terrorist group the JMB. While Peace Corps does operate in numerous countries with terrorist activities, volunteers and foreigners tend not to be the targets. Safety and security is the number one priority for PEace Corps and our Director in Washington made the decision to suspend the program. You can read his press release here:

http://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=resources.media.press.view&news_id=1103

So how am I doing? Not too well at the moment and pretty much in shock. We were called with the information to evacuate and given 3 hours to pack and say our goodbyes. How do you say goodbye to people you have created bonds with, friendships with in less than 3 hours? How do you tell your 9 year old niece that you have to go back to America at this moment? How do you tell your students that you will never teach another class? You will never see the projects to the end that you started? Never see their progress and commend their successes? How do you tell your friends that your sorry for leaving even though you dont want to go? There wasn't enough time and I feel like my guts have been ripped out. And even though many of the people won't read these words that I want to read them I have got to say them anyway.

To Malik: What can I say? You were there the first minute I stepped off the bus at site. I did not know who you were but you knew who I was, seeing as I was the only white woman in the town. I was so scared when I got there not knowing where I was going to sleep that night or what was going to happen to me. But there you were with that goofy grin and you said. "Hello I am Abdul Malik your counterpart. Your host father is here to take you home." I remember thinking how short you were and how skinny. Over the next months you showed me patience and kindess and eventually love. You always helped me when I needed it and I know it must have been annoying at times to take me to the market again, or to help me with whatever situation I seemed to get myself into. But you always did help me with a smile on your face and eventually I felt like I was a part of your family. I especially felt so when your 4 year old little daughter came running yelling "Auntie Maya Auntie Maya"!!! and your wife and her sisters began to tease me the way they teased eachother. I remember how excited you were when you talked to my brother on the phone and how proud you were of me and could not wait to meet him when he came to Bangladesh. I remember too how you wept in my living room when I told you that I had to leave in 2 hours and go back to America. You did not want me to see you crying and so I did not look at you but I was crying too. You are my family Malik and of course I will never forget you.

To Nazia: You made me love kids. I know it must seem funny not to like kids when you went to college to become a teacher but I was used to teenagers. Little kids just annoyed me but you warmed my heart. I think I will miss you the most. I loved your spunk and your humor and how you never gave up at anything. I loved sitting with you drawing princesses and teaching you how to salsa and tango and I love that you liked mariachi music. I loved watching cartoons in Hindi with you and how you always wanted to do your English homework with me. I think I learned more Bangla from you than anyone else and had to laugh at myself when I mispronounced everything like when I called a cough an elephant, cough being "khashi" in Bangla and elephant being "hati" and how everyone thought it was so funny that now you all call coughs "elephants". You always wanted me with you and you were the neatest kid I ever met. The look on your face broke my heart when I told you I had to go back to America. I am sorry I had to leave you weeping and sobbing. I am sorry I had to take your arms from around my waist and push you away as I left. I am sorry to have left you and sorry I made you cry. I love you so much my little Nazia.

To my Students: I dont know how you all managed to show up so fast at the school that day but gossip really does travel fast. I am so proud of all of you. You all did so well in the class and were all so dedicated. You were the reason I stuck it out for as long as I did in Bangladesh. Because there were many days I just wanted to give up and go home. Everything was so hard there, everything a challenge. But then I would walk into the class and the stresses of the day were forgotten. I would see your faces and I knew why I had joined Peace Corps and why I was going to stay in Bangladesh. I would have fought the whole world for you. I tried. The internet class was your idea. The English Club was your idea. You guys had the drive and the desire I just was there to facilitate. But you inspired me and made me feel that all of this craziness was worth it. I will miss our classes and our time together very deeply.


There really is so much more I have to say but I am tired and not the best writer in the world. How can I explain to you reader what I have been through? I really can't. But that is the nature of experience isnt it? I don't know what I am going to do next I am still processing all of this and I am really really sad. I left a big piece of myself in Bangladesh and I am changed forever.

M

Peace Corps Rite of Passage & recipies

There are many so called Peace Corps "rites" of passage but one of the most common and distinguished is tropical diharrea. Yep after Dhaka or rather on the bus from Dhaka back to site I got sick. Its not fun sitting on a bus for 4 hours feeling like you are going to explode. Once at site things went from bad to worse. I spent two days in bed with a fever and making frequent trips to the water closet as it were. That was the sickest I have been since I had the flu in Las Cruces years ago. Ugh. I still feel weak and my tummy is definately not OK but I beat the fever and taught my class today and then came here. I know this may seem a strange thing to share with the world but I am not embarrassed. Bangladesh is affected with diharreal diseases more than any where else and lots of people die. Everyone here knows about it and talks about it without shame. "Ohhhh you had the diharrea madam...did you make sure to drink saline?" thats what they asked me at the bank this morning as I dragged myself in. Yes I have been drinking oral rehydration salts (which taste like crap) and water, and coconut water and eating plain mushy rice and bannanas. Bleh. Lost more weight too and I am sorry to say it was mostly in the boobs. Why couldnt it be in the tummy!!!??? Anyhow my friend here nursed me. He brought me the saline and the coconuts and food and a chicken. Also all the servants of my neighbor came to visit me as did many of my students. They came and brought me gifts and told me to get better and clucked at me like mommies. It was all really surreal and strange but I guess they really do care for me. Madame they said you missed International Women's Day. And I said I know but I thought I was going to die in my bathroom. I did in fact call the Peace Corps medical unit and basically you just have to stay hydrated which I did.

Anyway, I miss food. I am going to the market to get stuff when I am finished here. I mean I really used to be a pig in the US but not here. I was really craving bangers and mash and a black and tan the other night and then yesterday I wanted sushi REALLY BAD. Ugh. The thought of putting curry in my tender sensitive torn up tummy gives me shivers.

But in the spirit of yummy food..... yeah I know this blog is diabolical.... but in the spirit of that yummy food... here are a few of my favorite recipies from Bangladesh:

FISH CURRY WITH COCONUT:
Ingredients:
200g fish steaks (hilsha, koi, cod rui what ever....)
1 tsp garlic minced
1 tsp ginger sliced
1 large red onion
1 cinnimon stick (1'' stick)
1/2 tsp mustard powder
1/2 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
salt (to taste)
3 Tbs oil
1-2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp whole black pepper
fresh corriander leaves to taste
3-4 small green chilies
1 cup fresh cilantro
1 large tomatoe chopped
1 tsp tamarand
1 can coconut or 1/2 real coconut shredded

1. Fry cinnimon, mustard, cumin, pepper, bay leaves and chiles in oil
2. Add garlic and ginger
3. Add onions and fry until brown
4. Add 1/2 leaves of correander. Add tomatoe and cook for 5 to 10 minutes
5. Add fish and remaining cumin, chili powder, salt, tamarind, tumeric, and coconut. If the curry looks dry add 1/4 cup of water. Simmer 5-10 minutes.
6. Add remaining corriander. Simmer 5 minutes.

CHICKEN ROAST:
Ingredients:
8lbs chicken skinless with the bones
1/2 cup diced onions
1 1/2 cups ghee or oil
1 tbsp salt
1 1/2 cups natural yogurt or sour cream
1 Tbsp ground ginger
1 Tbsp ground garlic
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 Tbsp ground poppy seeds
1/4 tsp ground mace
1/2 tsp ground cinnimon
1/2 cup keora water
2 Tbsp sugar
1 Tbsp lemon juice

1. In a saucepan over medium heat, heat ghee. Fry chicken lightly in ghee for about 10 min. Remove pan from heat. Allow to cool for 15 min.

2. Combine black pepper, poppy seeds, mace, cinnamon and cardamom to make a paste. (add 2 tbsp water if necessary)

3. Mix onion, salt, yogurt, ginger, and garlic. Add to chicken. Mix. Add 1-2 cups of water (not necessary if using small chickens) Cover and cook over low heat for about 1 hour; stirring occasionally.

4. Turn the chicken pieces and baste them with black pepper and mixture gravy and sprinkle with keora water.

5. Dissolve sugar in a little water, and add lemon juice. When the chicken is tender and cooked sprinkle suger mixture over chicken.

TOMATO IN LENTILS:
Ingredients:
1 cup lentils (small orange ones are best)
1/2 tsp ground tumeric
1/2 tsp chili powder
2 Tbsp chopped cilantro
2 green chilies
2 tsp crushed garlic
1 Tbsp sliced onions
1 Tbsp oil
3 medium tomatoes quartered
salt to taste

1. In a pot over medium heat, combine lentils, tumeric, chili powder, salt and 4 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 40 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook until tomatoes are soft.

2. Add cilantro and green chilies and bring to a boil. Remove from heat.

3 In a sauce pan over medium heat, heat oil and saute onions and garlic until brown. Add to lentils and bring to a boil. Remove from heat.


Let me know if anyone tries these or if you want more recipeis.... I have loads though I have eaten many fascinating things here in the desh I dont cook too much. The lentil dish is one of my favorites though.

Peace Out.....

M

Its a bit early......

But...........

HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LOVE YOU BUNCHES!

XOXOXOXOXOXO

M

The mundanity of it all, DAMN!

So I had a wonderful time in Dhaka this weekend. Went there and shopped and ate yummy food and toured around and I had red wine. I also had hot bubbly baths in the hotel. Yes the true path to happiness is vino and bubbly baths... its all I really need for true happiness. :) I needed a break from site as we all do from time to time. So went out for the weekend. I also went to a travel agency to set up my plans for my Thailand trip and I spent WAY to much money at a store called Aarong which is like the "pier one" of Bangladesh. The people in California would eat this stuff up!!! Its great. I bought a BEAUTIFUL salwar kameez black with hotpink hand work and antique gold sequins. I also bought a new sari and a purse and some really hot cute sandals. Hey so the ugly tevas got nicked I have a new pair of leather sandals that will go with anything! And I am really poor. I spent half my monthy wage in one hour at one store...3000 taka, which is like 50 bucks. Hey I payed my rent and I dont eat food anymore anyway so its all good.

What else to say. Ummm my life is slowly getting routiene and boring like everyone elses. Imagine that. Nothing too much to speak of. They caught the big head guy of the Terriorist group the JMB two days ago which is really good news for Peace Corps. Things are quiet. Things are calm. We are all settling into our apartments and getting into our grooves at site.

Oh yeah I got a package today from Mission Viejo, California. It had a bunch of Trader Joes fruit leather and lots of books, classics, but there was no letter and I am not sure who it is from. Mission Viejo care package giver thank you so much and I am sorry if I dont know who you are and my brain is totally upside down. Thank you for the books I will read everyone of them and then donate them to the library at my college when I leave.

So signing off for now........ Taking Bangla lessons, learning to read and write, starting singing lessons, walking a lot, .........

M

Not ANOTHER wedding!!

Ugg weddings.... they rush you in and of course that means to the women's section. Everyone pushes for a seat and I mean everyone. Grannies elbowing kids, kids pushing and screaming at grannies. You bully your way to a seat and then the waiters throw your food at you. You eat as fast as humanly possible and make as big a mess as humanly possible. You laugh, you yell, you swat your kids and spit out chicken bones. It is utter chaos. The bride sits on the dias surrounded by clicking photos and and video cameras. She looks like she is in hell. I know I am in hell. I know that I never want to get married in this context. Ugg. So that is the women's side. The men's side (yes I used my foreigner status to mosy on into the male domain) is quiet, almost somber. The men talk, they laugh a little, the eat and proudly shake the grooms hand (who is also sitting on a dias though he looks like he hit the jackpot and not like its the end of his life). Yes the men's side is much more chill. A refuge from the insanity of the world that is little kids, screaming female relatives and old ladies shaking curry slathered fingers.

I am more used to it though getting these insane wedding invites. I am a status symbol as a guest.... "Did you know that so and so had the foreigner come to her wedding.... blah blah blah...." Its ok though, since most of the time I am hungry anyway. Its a free meal. Today the guys at the bank looked at me with a dissaprooving glance. "Madame" they said, "You must eat more rice you are looking too thin. We have noticed it since the last time you came here." Yeah its true I have trouble eating and cooking and shopping for food. I really do have serious food issues from childhood. But hey I am skinny now, I guess that is good. I do eat just not a lot.

Its just getting hot and I have a lot of work to do. I went to a picnic with my college two days ago. We went to another tea garden and had a boat ride and went hiking. I learned how to tap a rubber tree and how to pick tea. Manual labor thank you no! We had a loud speaker on the bus and they begged me to sing. "Please Ms. Maya sing your national anthem!!!" So roaring down the road through town I belted out the American national anthem...."OH SAY CAN YOU SEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!" Yeah I had a bit of perverse pleasure with that. Sneak attack America!

Just been teaching and loving it and adding to my class load. We are starting an English club too among other things. And of course I am working on the plans for my Thailand trip. YES!!!! So excited about that. Che will be coming back with me... am I repeating myself... yup. Anyway I am excited. I also bought myself some cane furniture complete with ants and termites. But I dont mind, the insects are not so scary anymore. I let the spiders live in my house because they eat all the other nasties.

Life is fine. Its getting really hot though. Monsoons will be coming........

M

Little nicks, little cuts

I keep cutting myself. I don't know why, usually I am not a clutz but my hands have almost a dozen little nicks and cuts. Peeling potatoes I also peeled my nuckle, caught my other hand on a door jam and the tips of my fingers are cut too from various things. There is a little cut on the palm of my hand too. Just random little places that bleed. They hurt a lot too. My hands are so sensitive. Its the little things that hurt the most I think. I just don't know why I keep cutting myself its odd.

I am healthy otherwise and doing well all things considered. Been having a good week too even though I had a nasty fight with a rickshaw walla. Even that can't bring me down. I just feel good. My classes are going well and I have started my internet class for my girls, which is why I am here now typing this blog. I had to start with the basics. Many of them had never even used a mouse before and they do not know how to type. But I showed them how to "surf" and also set them up yahoo e-mail accounts. Its basic and progress is slow but they are so hungry for learning. I really really love my students. Its odd but I feel so connected to them. I told you too that we are starting an English club and I have also started a conversational English class for the teachers at my college. Though the only teachers that show up are the new unmarried bachelor teachers. Hmmm..... The other teachers don't have time for their English learning but that is ok I guess. I have also started taking Bangla lessons again and am learning how to read Banglali. Let me say that it is really a pain in the ass. Nope not a linguist. But this is a good experience for me to be able to understand where my students are coming from when they learn English. Am I bi-lingual? No but I can communicate in Bangla and I know the language far more than Spanish which I had like 5 years of classes in. Duhhhhhh........... Really unless you have a gift for language you must live in a country to learn the language. And I gentle readers DO NOT have a gift for language.

So today is international language day for your information. That is big news here since Bangladesh fought Pakistan for its liberation and the Bangla language. There are programs tonight but since I must be in by sunset anyway.... guess I wont have fun. God I have never felt so guilty for being a woman before in my life. Almost as if being born were a crime. It is really going to my head but I would rather be inside and safe and bored out of my mind than tempt the fates (or the men) and have a nasty experience here. Bleh.......Of course if I am with someone or a group of people its ok for me to be out but I cannot be out alone at night. I feel like I am 17 again.

Also I know it is a few months away but I am REALLY excited for my holiday in Thailand.!! I seriously need some R&R and to not be scrutinized ALL the time. You do give up various freedoms to be in Peace Corps but I think the experience is worth it. I keep saying that ... who am I trying to convince, you all or me? Sheesh.

I still don't like to cook. I need to try though because I am getting bored with the 3 things I make everyday. I get a lot of lunch invites so that is nice. I ordered some wicker furniture yay me. And I bought two celing fans because it is getting hot again. Yep thats right winter (heh heh heh) is over here and I have started to sweat at night with out the fan. Che its gonna suck when you come but hey you get to go back home so no worries.

Just doing my thang..... life is... well... interesting.

M

Love is in the air...

So after re-reading my last blog I have come to the realization that I am indeed a peacenik love loving hippy. I give all my punk rock friends permission to beat me up when I return home. Speaking of love today is Valentines day and I got more gifts today than I have from all of my boyfriends put together! Yep thats right folks I am adored.... its kind of scary actually and I can say with 100% certanty I DO NOT want to ever be famous. My students gave me two huge bouquets of flowers and a statue for my desk and cards! Yikes! It was really nice but I felt really embarrassed as one of my students jumped up and yelled "We all LOVE you so much madame!!!!" If this was America I could feel the lawsuits pending. But here it is different and to say that I have 30 or so young girls who love me is really really weird. I am not even sure what "love" means when they say it. I reserve that word for family and really special people in my life. But here it is used in the same way we use "like" I think.

So yes love abounds on this day.. .. something about a Saint and cards or something. But today we are supposed to spend time with our sweethearts... a day for love and lovers. And actually quite a taboo thing here in the Desh. Although I know that some of my students skipped my class to be with their boyfriends. ITs just like being back home. I have to admit that I am feeling a little bit like I could be out with my beloved. On a date, being courted, all that nice stuff that I used to pretend was cliche and boring. Though that stuff is on cryogenic freeze for me now. Really it is not even safe to date here or try to start a relationship with anyone. The female Peace Corps volunteers (you know who you are!!!) that date Bangladeshis are just asking for trouble. People here love to gossip and boys brag and soon you are that American "hussy" just like in the movies. And dating another volunteer while safer and easer to deal with (ya both know rules of love in America) is also trouble in my opinion. I mean we are in an extremely stressful situation here. We are learning new things all the time and expanding our experiences and growing, and I don't think this is a good place to start a relationship. Nope that is a world of pain folks. But I am in the minority and many of my comrades will not heed my words.

Oh and I found out yesterday that volunteers in Mongolia get issued ponies and bows and arrows. They also take hunting classes as part of their training. That RULES! I am so PISSED OFF! I am never going to be honest on an application again, especially where Uncle Sam is concerned! I could be riding on the Mongolian steppe right now bow and arrow in hand running down the small winter rabbit for my dinner!!!! Just like one of Ghengis Khans warriors...... But no. What do we get issued in Bangladesh? Mobile phones. Stupid dumb common mobile phones. Thought I was trying to get away from that..... sigh....

M